Smarter About Waxing | How To Wax
A good work place for waxing and scraping is a
must with good ventilation. You may want to put a tarp under your waxing area to catch drippings and shavings.
Most serious waxers need a ski bench or a ski form to
work on. Ski forms can be purchased or made. If you are interested in
making your own ski waxing form out of 2"x6" lumber, talk
with your coach or one of the wax clinic organizers for a pattern.
Waxing Iron (for
A good waxing iron sells for about $100. These irons provide stable
temperatures and they are adjustable for the range of temperatures (100C
to 180C or 212F to 356F) needed to melt ski waxes. A standard travel
iron (estimated cost = $25-$35) can also be used to wax skis. It is
important to have a flat, smooth bottom and reliable temperature settings.
Irons with holes in the bottom are not recommended because the wax from
your last wax job will collect in the holes and contaminate your next
wax job. Some ski shops will calibrate your iron free of charge so that
you do not burn your ski bases.
To start out, pick one major brand of waxes and learn their waxing system.
Some major brands that are available locally are Swix, Toko, Holemkol,
Start, and Star. See one of the Ski Shops for them.
Glide Wax - this is a wax you will put on the full length of your skate skis. You will also put this on the tip and tails of your classic skis (not on the kick wax zone). This usually comes as a hard wax that you will iron on. You will want to purchase a wide range of waxes to cover a broad range of snow temperatures and textures.
Kick Wax - this is for classic skis and it put only on your kick pocket zone of your skis. You will also want to purchase a wide range of waxes to cover a broad range of snow temperatures and textures. You will rub this wax on the kick zone of your classic skis then cork it into the bottoms to smooth the wax out.
Klister - The third type of wax that you will
eventually become familiar with but may not need right away is klister.
These are very sticky waxes that are used with or in place of kick waxes
when the ski conditions are very icy and/or warm and wet. It can get messy!
1 - plexi scraper - 4-5mm thickness
1 - metal scraper for classic skis (use cautiously, this can do permanent damage)
1 - groove scraper
Cork - synthetic or
natural for rubbing in kick wax on classic skis
Brushes - 1 hard white
nylon brush, one fine blue or black bristle brush and 1 brass brush
Liquid Wax Remover - (e.g. Swix Citrus Base Cleaner, 500-1000 ml or equivalent) Caution-wax
removers should be used in a well-ventilated area. It is usually used
to wipe off old kick wax.
A supply of paper towels, clean cloth rages, or a roll
of fiberlene cleaning towels for cleaning skis.
Sand paper (220 grit)
- used occasionally with a sanding block to remove oxidized base material
and prepare kick zone of classical skis for waxing.
Thermometer - pocket
type used for measuring temperatures for waxing. When the temperature
is below 32F, use the snow temperature for wax selection. Above 32 use
the air temperature in the shade for waxing.
Ski straps or ski bones - keep your skis together and help protect you new wax job.
Ski Bag - provides
protection to your skis and poles when they are being transported.
- Buy the correct pair of skis for your size, weight, and ability - Very Important!. Sizing Charts
- Make sure your ski bases are in good condition. They
should be flat and textured. This can be done by hand or by stonegrinding
(at a local ski shop).
- Follow these simple steps below.
GLIDE WAX (for skate skiing and tips/tails of classic skis)
Warning!!! Iron temperature should be only warm enough to melt wax,
- Use wire (brass/copper) brush to clean out texture. Brush from tip to tail, one direction.
- Fibertex Pad (3M heavy duty stripping pad is a good one). Can rub both directions.
- Clean base by waxing then scraping warm.
- Crayon wax of the day to base and iron in. Do not let iron smoke or you will burn ski.
- Cool 30-45 min. (hard waxes scrape warm).
- Brush with nylon brush.
KICK WAX (for classic skis)
Know and mark your kick Zone! (If you do not know your
kick zone you can test your skis at one of the shops or wax long and
see where the wax remains after a long ski.
- Find Your Kick Zone or Classic Waxing Pocket
- Classic Ski waxing pocket - how to guide - pdf
- Clean off old wax w/putty knife and wax remover.
- Add 3-5 layers of wax of the day. Cork between layers to smooth
- Clean off old wax.
- Sand kick zone with 180-220 grit sand paper.
- Iron or heat gun in a binder.
- Add layer of wax of the day. Cork and heat into binder.
- Add 4-6 layers of wax and cork between layers.
- If more kick is needed try:
- More layers (thicken the pocket)
- Longer kick zone (forward of kick zone)
- Then try a warmer wax if A and B don't work.