Smarter About Waxing | How To
A good work place for waxing and scraping is a
must. Also, something (e.g., newspaper, plastic, or a tarp) to catch
wax scrapings is a good idea.
Most serious waxers need a ski bench or a ski form to
work on. Ski forms can be purchased or made. If you are interested in
making your own ski waxing form out of 2"x6" lumber, talk
with your coach or one of the wax clinic organizers for a pattern.
Waxing Iron (for
A good waxing iron sells for about $100. These irons provide stable
temperatures and they are adjustable for the range of temperatures (100C
to 180C or 212F to 356F) needed to melt ski waxes. A standard travel
iron (estimated cost = $25-$35) can also be used to wax skis. It is
important to have a flat, smooth bottom and reliable temperature settings.
Irons with holes in the bottom are not recommended because the wax from
your last wax job will collect in the holes and contaminate your next
wax job. Some ski shops will calibrate your iron free of charge so that
you do not burn your ski bases.
To start out, pick one major brand of waxes and learn their waxing system.
Some major brands that are available locally are Swix, Toko, Holemkol,
Start, and Star. Several of these companies publish good information
pamphlets. See one of the Ski Shops for them.
Your local ski shops can recommend a basic selection of
kick waxes to get you started. For skiers that are just learning about
waxing, the Toko system may be easier to learn because their waxes cover
a broad range of snow temperatures. The third type of wax that you will
eventually become familiar with but may not need right away is klister.
These are very sticky waxes that are sued with or in place of kick waxes
when the ski conditions are very icy and/or warm and wet.
1 - plexi scraper - 4-5mm thickness
1 - metal scraper (use cautiously, this one can do permanent damage)
1 - groove scraper
Cork - synthetic or
natural for rubbing in kick wax on classic skis
Brushes - 1 hard white
nylon brush, one fine blue bristle brush and 1 brass brush
Liquid Wax Remover
- (e.g. Swix Citrus Base Cleaner, 500-1000 ml or equivalent) Caution-wax
removers should be used in a well-ventilated area. It is usually used
to wipe off old kick wax.
A supply of paper towels, clean cloth rages, or a roll
of fiberlene cleaning towels for cleaning skis.
Sand paper (220 grit)
- used occasionally with a sanding block to remove oxidized base material
and prepare kick zone of classical skis for waxing.
Thermometer - pocket
type used for measuring temperatures for waxing. When the temperature
is below 32F, use the snow temperature for wax selection. Above 32 use
the air temperature in the shade for waxing.
Ski straps or ski bones
- keep your skis together and help protect you new wax job.
Ski Bag - provides
protection to your skis and poles when they are being transported.
Glide Wax | Kick
- FIRST - Get the correct pair of skis for you in relation
to flex, size, weight, and ability.
- NEXT - Make sure your ski bases are in good condition. They
should be flat and textured. This can be done by hand or by stonegrinding
(at a local ski shop).
- THEN - Follow these simple steps.
Warning!!! Iron temperature should be only warm enough to melt wax,
- Use wire(brass/copper) brush to clean out texture.
- Fibertex Pad (3M heavy duty stripping pad is a good one).
- Clean base by waxing and scraping warm.
- Crayon wax of the day to base and iron in.
- Cool 30-45 min. (hard waxes scrape warm).
Know and mark your kick Zone! (If you do not know your
kick zone you can test your skis at one of the shops or wax long and
see where the wax remains after a long ski.
Classic Ski waxing pocket - how to guide
- Clean off old wax w/putty knife and wax remover.
- Add 3-5 layers of wax of the day. Cork between layers to smooth
- Clean off old wax.
- Sand kick zone with 180-220 grit sand paper.
- Iron or heat gun in a binder.
- Add layer of wax of the day. Cork and heat into binder.
- Add 4-6 layers of wax and cork between layers.
- If more kick is needed try:
- More layers (thicken the pocket)
- Longer kick zone (forward of kick zone)
- Then try a warmer wax if A and B don't work.